Prabal Gurung, Spring 2018 NYFW

Gurung is using his platform to promote change, and in a Fashion Week taking place among headlines about Hurricane Irma and other global catastrophes, that made this show feel vital.

The collection had an appealing directness, as well. Over the past few seasons, Gurung has turned cut-outs trimmed with rouleau buttons into a key signature; this time around he added them to ribbed knit dresses and, most effectively, a deep-hemmed sweater. Some of his clients will probably take to wearing the top portion only. 

                                                                                                                                         NICOLE PHELPS,

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Victoria Beckham, NYFW S/S 2018

“Delicacy can be strong” –  Victoria Beckham

Beckham’s thinking on femininity has changed over the years, to be sure.

She’s long since traded in her hourglass dresses and stilettos for tailoring and—even occasionally—flats, but lately she’s been feeling for clothes with a real sense of slouch. For every pencil skirt here, there was a midi-length kilt barely hanging off the model’s hips. She riffed on the pajama look, elevating her matching sets in a subtle but substantial floral jacquard.

                                                NICOLE PHELPS ,

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Tibi’s Amy Smilovic was particularly inspired by the street style of the ’80s, when New Yorkers weren’t so precious about their outfits and didn’t wear “prescribed” looks.

Another big thing in the ’80s was power suiting, and the show opened with a few work-appropriate options. A pale gray checked jacket and beige trousers were a clever answer to the conventional matchy-matchy suit of 2017 and looked fresher than the XL jackets Smilovic showed for Fall. But the blazers with transparent PVC corsets around the waist sort of worked against her un-styled thing—haven’t we reached the end of our rope with that trick?     (Emily Farra, VOGUE.COM)

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